References to Bandhej can be found in historical records dating back to the Indus Valley civilization. Buddhist paintings in the Ajanta caves also testify to the technique being actively practiced around 200 years before the Common Era. In modern-day Rajasthan, men wear Bandhej turbans featuring varying patterns and colors that correspond with their caste and social status.
Laheriya is a traditional tie-dye technique from the kingdom of Marwar (Jodhpur) in Rajasthan and dates to the 17th century. Patronised by the Rajput rulers of the time, distinct patterns of laheriya were used to signify belonging. Laheriya is also linked with the changing seasons of Rajasthan.
In tie & dye techniques, fabrics are tied in the desired form. Tied parts of the fabric ‘resist’ the dyeing process, retaining the color of the original cloth. We work with the Bandhej and Laheriya tie-dye traditions.
In Bandhej, dots marked on the base cloth act as visual markers, guiding the tying process. The cloth is then dyed. This process can be repeated using various colors to create desired patterns.
Laheriya, derived from lahar (wave), refers to the textile’s wave-like patterns. Fabric is rolled and knotted diagonally from a corner and dyed. This process may be repeated multiple times, sometimes across both directions.
Our work with Laheriya draws from the animation inherent in its patterns. We explore how ‘adiya’ (derived from ‘adha’ or ‘diagonal line') creates movement when draped across the body. We interpreted the Pachranga pattern, a five-colored laheriya, with stripes placed along the drape. Raw Mango introduced the usage of zardozi embroidery on leheriya fabrics to complement the gota appliqué used traditionally.
We use Bandhej to create patterns on silk in conjunction with embroidery. The usage of plain silk in Bandhej is an uncommon occurrence today. Bandhej run-offs are used to create garments.
