Raw Mango’s story began in 2006, with one textile. Till today, Chanderi is our happy place.

An old historical town located in the district of Ashoknagar of northern Madhya Pradesh, Chanderi rose to prominence in the 11th Century. Around this time the region also became one of the most important trade routes in India, given its proximity to the ancient ports of Gujarat, Malwa, Mewar, Central India and Deccan. The region has a multicultural population, all of whom are a part of its handloom industry. Textile has always been an essential part of Chanderi and over the last 500 years the region has produced saris, furnishings, odhanis, pagdis and other garment fabric, especially for the Royal families in India. It is said that the fabric was introduced by Lord Krishna’s cousin Shishupal. In the Maasir-i-Alamgiri, it is stated that Emperor Aurangzeb ordered the use of a cloth embroidered with gold and silver to make a khilat (a ceremonial robe given to a senior).

Traditionally, garments were made using the finest cotton yarn of up to 200 count and yarn was hand spun on Charkhas by a local tribe called ‘Katia’. The other thread made of pure gold & silver called Zari was used for making borders and butis was being imported from France. The fabric being produced was categorized as 100% cotton, and unbleached grey yarn was used in the body warp & weft border. In 1936, 13/15 denier raw silk yarn came from Japan and was used in Chanderi sarees for the first time, since then the silk yarn is used in warp and cotton yarn for weft and this construction of fabric became very popular and is traditionally known as ‘Chanderi fabric’.

Chanderi is a semi-sheer soft, airy textile with a luster given its cotton/silk weave. Its lightness is famed and described as ‘bunni hui hawa (woven air). Chanderi is famous for its extremely fine silk warp products of untwisted 16-18 denier. Weft has the option for using 120s count cotton or 22-23 denier twisted silk, locally called "katan" or organza.

Sanjay became engaged with a small project in Chanderi in 2008, encountering Chanderi for the first time. Once this happened, he didn’t see any reason in pursuing further studies in London. It was during this textile project that he was motivated to think more deeply about why Chanderi & handloom were in such a crisis, why didn’t women want to wear saris anymore, and how he could investigate and question the current perspective on it? It was at this point he met Bhagwan Das and Kishanal, who remain part of the team today. Our journey began over a cup of chai in Chanderi and has turned into a decade-long relationship wherein, our work together sustains each other.

“मैं चंदेरी का रहने वाला हूँ। मेरे पूर्वजो से ही बुनाई का काम चल रहा है और मैंने बुनाई का काम अपने माता पिता से सीखा है। लगभग २५(25) सालों से मैं बुनाई का काम कर रहा हूँ। चंदेरी सिल्क का काम क