Chanderi comes from a historical town of the same name in northern Madhya Pradesh. This textile craft rose to prominence in the 11th century, as trade flourished in Chanderi from the nearby ports of Gujarat, Malwa, Mewar, Central India and Deccan. The fabric was originally intended for royal usage and would only be woven in shades of white, sometimes marked with saffron.
The region has produced saris, furnishings, odhanis, pagdis and other royal accoutrements for the region's many kingdoms. In the Maasir–i-Alamgiri, it is stated that emperor Aurangzeb ordered the use of a cloth embroidered with gold and silver to make a khilat (a ceremonial robe for a senior). Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar was also pivotal to the evolution and patronage of textile crafts in Madhya Pradesh.
In the 30 or 40 villages surrounding Chanderi where weaving takes place, the entire family helps out with the production; they fill the shuttle which is then put into the weft. The last component is the zari, mainly used in the border and for filling motifs, which comes from Surat and Benares.
A fabric so lightweight that it is described as ‘bunni hui hawa' (a woven breeze), Chanderi is traditionally a rich and delicate blend of silk and cotton. With a semi-sheer and soft texture, the presence of silk in the weave lends Chanderi a subtle sheen.
Motifs seen in Chanderi are woven into the fabric with the use of extra weft. The ‘Dandi’ borders of Chanderi saris appear prominent and colorful because they are sometimes composed of a denser satin weave to help with the drape and fall. It is one of many techniques used in the craft. In some cases, the Chanderi weave was also enhanced with trace amounts of zari.
The “Ganga Jamuni” saris feature a revival of techniques in Chanderi. Differently colored borders on each side make these fabrics reversible. The “Ek Jutiya” saris take that concept a step further, with both sides of each border woven in a different color. The “Nal Pherwa” weave employs 3 shuttles used in the weft - two for contrasting borders and one for the base.
The first textile offered within Raw Mango, our innovations within the yarn and weaving process continue to visually define Chanderi as a textile. The brand innovated on traditional processes to increase the durability of Chanderi fabrics, reducing cracks and color bleeding.
We worked to fix dyes in the town of Chanderi, which is located on a rocky belt, where the scarceness of water would hamper traditional dyeing processes. Chanderi saris aren’t washed after weaving traditionally, but at our workshops, we soften the saris to give them a better feel in-hand.
Our success with this contemporary interpretation of Chanderi saris and dupattas has had an impact on design innovation of the entire industry—with simplification of borders and the introduction motifs into Chanderi like cows, parrots, sparrows, monkeys, angels & floral motifs of mogra, roses and marigolds. Chanderi fabrics from Raw Mango feature contemporary colors such as yellow, lime green, midnight blue and sharbati pink.
We increased the use of zari from trace amounts to an overall presence in the fabric, and have also introduced a range of materials to the craft creating combinations of cotton, silk, organza, khadi and wool. Today,
Raw Mango employs 450+ people engaged with the weaving of Chanderi, with 50-70 looms dedicated to the craft.
A Chanderi sari with a plain weave takes approximately three days to finish, but depending on the level of detail in the design, the process can take as long as 15 days.
