This collection was a challenge for us to revive the long forgotten art of hand woven engineered textile. Creating a panel size repeat of a large curvilinear design was a monumental task for draughtsmen.
Several inventive measures and old craft practices led to the increase in capacity of designs, construction and repeat size. We’ve used traditional design vocabulary harmonizing the prevalent skill set of the weaver in order to understand the numerous future possibilities for this technique and imparting training and enhancing the skill set of the weaver. Despite having been worked and developed various weaving clusters of India, we chose Varanasi for its technical mastery for achieving intricate designs and patterns.
The entire collection is developed using the peculiar kadwa Brocade technique of Varanasi. Kadwa implies to the ornamentation of motifs using extra weft. The patterns, etched in gold against silk background achieved a remarkable clarity of pattern and forms with gem like enamelling. To understand the drapability and fullness of the garment, we sought solace in ever astounding craft tradition and studied historical garments such as lehnga, Pajama, pants and Sharara. We’ve palpated with different weight of yarns, weaves and finishing, achieving a suitable textile which is appropriate for stitching with best of fall and fullness.
Photography: Prarthna Singh